![]() ![]() What they sell is sort of fiddly to work with, but it does a good job of getting the inserts in straight and has a stop at the correct installation depth. ![]() I bought them from Meidjo, in France, because I also needed all the insert tools. Like St Alum said earlier, the Meidjo insert outside thread pitch (M8 / metric) is slightly different that the pitch on the two US products (5/16X18 Thread Pitch). I liked the Meidjo inserts because they come with all the bolts, which means I could be lazy and not have to figure out which bolts to buy. I should have virtually no epoxy under the insert.If you’re interested, these two vendors have the Meidjo insert kits, which include all the necessary bolts, in stock: I very carefully set the bit stop collar at the length of the insert. The fact that you can adjust the insert before the glue is cured is a cause for consternation for me though That is a great idea since there is very little slop or adjustment when the glue is cured like you might have running a screw into a drilled hole. I waited about an hour before I loosely mounted the bindings (24 hr epoxy). I had some overflow, but there had to be epoxy solidly filling the threads and hole below the insert. I screwed the inserts into my new Lhasas recently and I had the hole filled to the brim with epoxy (sorry Dropcliffsnotbombs). It's also a good idea to loosely attach the binding before the epoxy sets, so the light screw tension positions the inserts in exactly the right position. I also waited an hour after mixing before attaching the binding, to give the expoxy time to gel before snugging up the binding screws a bit, so the inserts don't spin deeper into the ski. One thing I thought of today is laying the ski upside down while the expoxy sets, so any excess epoxy under the insert drains down into the insert threads, instead of being a worthless puddle in the bottom of the hole. Those shiny inserts sure look nice in the ski! That way the bottoming tap (which can be hard to start) already had threads to follow in the top half of the hole.ĮDIT: Just finished installing the inserts with expoxy, was the easiest part of the whole thing. I also started each hole with a 5/16-18 "plug tap", then chased it with the 5/16-18 bottoming tap. They didn't have any problem emailing me spam every month since though.Īnyhow, I think the hot ticket was using a drill press to keep a healthy amount of downward pressure on the tap and make sure it was perpendicular to the ski, and watching the adjustible stop on the press to see when I reached the bottom of the hole without having to feel for it. Don't even get me started on the topsheet delaminations - and of course Armada ignored my emails inquiring about a partial warranty replacement at cost. (The skis are swiss cheese and this is the last mount left in them.) Threads came out real nice, even though the core appears to be really soft crap wood and about what I expected from Armada. Just finished drilling and tapping a JP vs Julien low-tide rock ski, took a lot longer than I expected but I was trying to be super careful so I'd get good threads. (Doesn't look like 5mm stainless t-nuts are available in the US, so you either have to go with zinc plated nut or a US thread.) Then you won't EVER have to worry about the screws pulling out, lol. You might need some spacer tubes to center the t-nuts in the 5/16" hole, but if you countersink the holes in the base you could probably cover the t-nuts with Tognar Metal Grip p-tex repair followed by regular p-tex. Of course, if you're not comfortable drilling even bigger holes in your skis (for the 5/16 Helicoil), your other option is to ditch the inserts altogether and use t-nuts through the base. Let the expoxy set, then touch up the cut end of the Helicoil wire with a grinder if needed, if it protrudes above the topsheet. (The Helicoil is wound wire, and the expoxy could leak to the inside of the coil, making it impossible to thread in the insert after the expoxy sets.) Immediately expoxy the insert into the Helicoil, BEFORE the expoxy sets. (The bolt will give you something to push against, and will keep the Helicoil threads below the topsheet straight.) Look for the point where the Helicoil wire drops below the topsheet and use your Dremel cut-off wheel with light pressure to slowly cut off the excess Helicoil. Then I'd remove the insertion tool, break off the tang at the bottom, and immediately thread a 5/16" bolt into the too-long Helicoil. Inserting the Helicoil per the instructions, but with expoxy on the outside of the Helicoil / on the hole walls. Jon should chime in here, but I'd do it by: (You can also buy these kits at most auto parts stores if you need one ASAP.) If you have a Dremel tool with a little cut-off wheel to trim off the extra insert length, you could use a kit like this for around $17 plus shipping: ![]()
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